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Toulouse,the capital of Spanish refuges who fled Franco's regime.

Writer's picture: Franck BRUGUIEREFranck BRUGUIERE


  • Little history :


If one could summarize in a single world the resistance of the Spanish Republicans against Franco's nationalist regime, it would be ' La Retirada " .

The left-wing Spanish Republicans, after resisty for a considerable time, retreaded to the city of Barcelona.


After intense and bloody battles Barcelona fell on January 26, 1939.

Within 15 days, 500 000 Spanish Republicans-men , women, children and the elderly were plunged into an unprecedented exodus.

This unprecedented migration mouvement would come to be know as the " Retirada " .



The crossing took place trough the Pyrenees to reach France, under extremely harsh weather conditions, bombing, fatigue and famine.

Faced with this massive exodus, the French gouvernement decided to open the borders on January 28,1939.


But at that time, France plagued by an economic crisis and engulfed in xenophobic sentiments, turned inward, offering the refuges a reception that was more than mixed.

Seventy departments were mobilized to accommodate these refugees in more or less unsanitary camps, and families were often separated.

With difficulties in providing food and clean water , along with a lack of hygiene, the mortality rate in these camps was high.



When World War II, broke out, French authorities tried to enlist the Spanish refuges in the French Foreign Legion.

However for most men between 20 and 48 years old, they were hired in foreign workforce compagnie to participate in large-scale public works projects.


But the Allied powers did not keep their promise, and Franco remained in power until 1975.

In the after math of World War II, 240 000 Spaniards settled in France, including 40% of Republicans exiles.


Today, many former Spanish refugees along with their grandchildren, take it upon themselves to preserve the memory of those who died defending a humanistic ideal.

They are mostly settled in the southwest of France.


Toulouse being the first major city encountered after the perilous crossing of the Pyrenees, became the capital of this exile.

In 1945, 10% of the population of the city of Toulouse consisted of Spaniards .


They settled on the left bank of the Garonne River, in the " Saint-Cyprien" neighborhood.

" The Viguerie port " is it symbol.

In march 2009, the Socialist major of Toulouse decided to name it, tribute to : the Spanish Republicans following the Spanish civil War " The Quai of the Spanish Republican Exile ".

It symbolizes the landing of these Spaniards fleeing Franco's regime in Spain and their new beginning in the " Saint-Cyprien " neighborhood of Toulouse.

This port was the commercial port and the departure port for travelers to Bordeaux or America.


The Spanish have infused Toulouse with their culture, and this continues to this day.

Indeed, many Spanish associations are present in Toulouse, as well as numerous bars and restaurants.

When strolling through Toulouse, it is very common to hear Spanish being spoken, creating a Hispanic atmosphere.


Artworks that are present in Toulouse and pay tribute to this exile :


The Sculpture by " Juan Jordà " :



Spanish painter and sculptor, born in 1929 in Catalonia , he like many of his compatriots, left his country.

Settled in Toulouse since 1945, he created this sculpture of the " Retirada " at the city's request, with was inaugurated in January 2002.

One of the men on the left can be seen holding a suitcase with words of hope engraved on it.

" Beyond the duty of remembrance, the dream of a fraternal song must continue ".


Under the building at Arcade, opposite the Capitol, there is a tribute to the " Retirada " in the paintings created by " Raymond Moretti " :


He was inspired by a photograph by " Robert Capa " to illustrate the theme of the " Guerriero " Republican in 1997.

He proudly carries his rifle in his right hand, and the painting features all the colors of Sapin.
















  • La CASA DE ESPAGNA :



It's a federation of associations in Toulouse that offers cultural of festive events.

Spanish and French courses for Spaniards .

It promotes Spanish culture and preserves the memory of all those Spanish Republican refugees , who fought against the Franco nationalist regime.


  • " Le Port viguerie " symbolizes the exile of the Spanish Republicans and their neighborhood :



From here, you can admire the splendid panorama of the historic center of Toulouse from the right bank of the Garonne .

The impressionist painter " Henri Martin" celebrated this magnificent landscaper with a painting that is displayed in our city hall ; The Capitole.


It was in 18th. century that the municipality had cyclopean brick walls built, later equipped with lock gates opening into the street to protect the neighborhood from the floods of the Garonne.



Before the levees, in 1875, on June 23 and 24, Toulouse experienced the fury of the Garonne, which devastated the entire " Saint-Cyprien " neighborhood .

The water reached a height of 9,7 meters above the ground floors.

The disaster resulted in the death of 208 people and the total destruction of 1219 houses.

Only bridge " Pont Neuf " resisted this terrible flood.


The complete this protection system, the municipality built flood gates.

When you pass trough them, you find yourself on a large esplanade, somewhat arc-shaped.

This is the " Viguerie Port ", also known as the port of exile for Spanish Republicans .

During the time of the Spanish Republican refugees, this neighborhood was considered disputable.







On one hand, because of their presence, but also due to the presence of foreigners from western Gascony who spoke a slightly different Occitan dialect from that of Toulouse.


Today, this city hall completely renovated the neighborhood so much so that is now occupied by more affluent social classes.

The facades of the building and Toulouse-style houses are being renoved one by one.

The levees and the " Port Viguerie " have been completely restored.

Playgrounds for children have been created, and the neighborhood has been greened.



What surprising is that when you're in this neighborhood you feel like you're in a small village : you're cut off from the noise of the big city ; Toulouse !!! .

While welking around, you quickly realize it.

Indeed, you come accross small bars and restaurants with beautiful , pleasant, and sunny terraces, as well as old shopfronts of vintage stores.

If you ever take a stroll through the neighborhood, don't miss " Place de L'Estrapade ", where on impressive number of very friendly tapas bars are concentrated.

The square is full of life and reminiscent of a Hispanic atmosphere.



There is evidence that Spain, trough Spanish Republican refugees, indeed occupied the neighborhood.

In fact, i, this photo, you can see a genuinely Spanish tapas bar, where , just like in Spain, people eat at the counter while drinking a glass of wine or a beer.



The "Saint-Nicolas " church in this district, which I already covered in the post about the four main churches in Toulouse, is magnificent. However, i am adding a few photos to provide you with additional information about this building.

First of all, you can observe the beauty and craftsmanship of the main entrance porch.

Notably, there are numerous statues adorning it. it's splendid and this church is like an a country church.



Also noteworthy is a statue of the Virgin in the corner of an exterior wall of the church.

It should be noted that there are many such statutes in Toulouse.

If you ever visit , you can go on a quest to find all these Virgins .

Originally placed in noble residents, once these were destroyed, the statues were located to various ledges around the city's neighborhoods to protect against negative energies, evil , spirit , and diseases.


" La Grave " and its dome, which stands out against the church steeples in the city.

It has been completely renovated and is a beautiful venue for organizing interactive exhibitions.








  • The Museum of Contemporary Art of Toulouse : " Les Abattoirs " :



From the " Quai de l'Exil " , a footbridge overlooks the river to reach a magnificent terrace where there is a guinguette with a splendid view of downtown Toulouse and the Garonne.

There is also a guinguette that I highly recommended.

Sit down, have a drink or, if you have a sweet tooth like me, enjoy something sweet.

Take the time to look across at the historic old Toulouse and, most importantly, the splendid Garonne River that flows through our city : guaranteed to impress !!! .




If you turn, you will discover the Museum os Contemporary Art of Toulouse, and the " Raymond IV " garden, where Toulousains like to come and relax on the lawns, and children play in the two playground and the carousel located here.

This place is steeped in history, as the garden is barbered by the magnificent renovated ancient ramparts that fortified Toulouse.

Here again, I refer you to post where I talk about the fully renovated ramparts that border the entire garden, dating back to the Middle Ages.


Yes originally, it was peculiar place because blood flowed in the gutters.

Indeed this is where animals were slaughtered as it was the former municipal slaughterhouse.


The building is the work of the Toulouse architect " Urbain Vitry ", who constructed a basilical ensemble marked by symmetry and neoclassicism.


Indeed it is a magnificent reconversion considering its history.

Indeed it was the major at the time, " Dominique Baudis ", who as early as 1985, commissioned two architects to rethink the space to accommodate the museum.


The museum opened its doors on June 23,2000.

It offers a 6 700 exhibition space.

The museum major work is located in the underground hall 11 meters high called :

" the Picasso curtain or the Remains of the Minotaur in Harlequin Costume ".



The whole complex has been classified as a historic monument since 1991.

It is one of the most visited museums in Toulouse.

Many great artists have been exhibited recently, such as " Giacometti " and " Niki de Saint Phalle ", as you can see in the photos .


Here my friends, that's all for today.

I hope you now understand why there is a Hispanic atmosphere in Toulouse.

A well-know singer from Toulouse " Claude Nougaro " sang and composed a love song to his hometown Toulouse, where he mentions that Spain pushed its horn "


Spanish culture has blended with our Occitan culture, and both Spaniards and toulousains, along with the city's 120 000 students, enjoy partying !!! .

That why, if you ever come to visit Toulouse, our city is known for its lively nightlife .

Now you know why, and you will be able to enjoy it.


Welcome in Toulouse.

The blog from Toulouse.

Greetings Franck.


Bonus photos : INSIDE THE MUSEUM AND THE EXHIBITION OF NIKI DE SAINT PHALLE :



BONUS PHOTOS THE " PORT VIGUERIE " DISTRICT :



BONUS VIDEO: IN THE SUMMER IN TOULOUSE WE DON'T BORING :




BONUS VIDEO THE PORT VIGUERIE DISTRICT BY NIGHT :